Henrik Ibsen described this ridge in Peer Gynt. Jotunheimen means "Home of the Giants." The Besseggen Ridge delivers on both names: it is genuinely dramatic, and you will feel very small on top of it. What it is not, is a technical alpine climb — anyone with moderate fitness and a head for heights can do it. That combination of accessibility and spectacle is exactly why it attracts 30,000–40,000 walkers each summer, making it one of Norway's busiest day hikes. Go early in the day to beat the ferry crowds and get the light on the ridge.
This guide covers the route step by step, how to get to Gjendesheim, where to sleep, what to pack, and the questions every first-timer has.
The route: ferry to Memurubu, then walk the ridge back
The classic Besseggen hike is point-to-point, not a loop. Most people do it in this direction:
- Gjendesheim → Memurubu by ferry: Take the morning MS Bitihorn boat from Gjendesheim dock. The ferry crosses 18 km of Lake Gjende in about 45 minutes and drops you at the Memurubu lodge. Boats run July to late September; the first morning departure fills fast in July — buy tickets online at gjende.no the day before.
- Memurubu → Besseggen summit (3–4 hrs): From the Memurubu landing, a signed trail climbs steeply through birch scrub and onto open fell. The gradient eases as you hit the broad Besseggen plateau at around 1,600 m. You reach the Besseggen ridge viewpoint — the true crux of the day — where the path narrows to a few metres wide with Lake Gjende 400 m below on your left and Lake Bessvatnet at a completely different level on your right. The scramble across the knife-edge takes 15–20 minutes; it is exposed but the rock is grippy. Beyond the crux the trail opens out onto the broader ridge.
- Ridge walk → Gjendesheim (1–2 hrs): After the famous section, the path descends gradually along the ridge with continuous views before dropping more steeply to the Gjendesheim car park. Total descent from the summit to the valley: about 750 m. Your knees will know about it.
Most people take 5–7 hours gate-to-gate (including the ferry). Start by 8:00 AM if you want solitude on the ridge; by 11:00 AM the knife-edge section has queues.
How to get to Gjendesheim
Gjendesheim sits at the end of a long valley road in Oppland county — it is not easy to reach, which is part of why the hike feels like a real expedition.
- From Oslo by bus: Take the Valdresekspressen (Nor-Way Bussekspress) from Oslo Bus Terminal to Fagernes, then a connecting Jotunheimen Rute bus to Gjendesheim. Total journey: 5–6 hours. Run this via entur.no for current timetables; connections are timed but only run in summer.
- By car: Oslo to Gjendesheim is about 3.5 hours via E16 and Route 51 through Valdres. There is a car park at Gjendesheim (fee). If you drive and do the one-way ridge walk, you take the ferry out and walk back to your car at Gjendesheim — the standard setup.
- From Lillehammer: 2.5 hours by car, or bus via Otta then Jotunheimen express to Gjendesheim. Slightly faster than the Oslo–Fagernes route.
Where to stay near Besseggen
Two lodges bracket the hike, both operated by DNT (the Norwegian Trekking Association):
- Gjendesheim lodge: Self-service DNT cabin with dormitory beds, a well-equipped kitchen, and a shop selling basic provisions and snacks. DNT members get a significant discount (membership costs around €50/year and pays off quickly on Norwegian mountain huts). Book well ahead for July and August at dnt.no.
- Memurubu lodge: A staffed DNT lodge accessible only by boat or on foot. Dormitories and some private rooms, hot meals, drying room. A good option if you want to spread the hike over two days — sleep at Memurubu, walk the ridge at dawn before the ferry crowds arrive.
- Tent camping: Permitted at designated spots around Gjendesheim. Jotunheimen allows wild camping in line with Norway's allemannsretten (right to roam) — at least 150 m from the nearest building. Do not camp on the ridge itself.
What to pack for Besseggen
This is an exposed mountain hike, not a valley walk. Norwegian mountain weather changes fast.
- Footwear: Waterproof hiking boots with a stiff sole. The ridge rock is grippy when dry but slippery when wet. Trail runners are workable for experienced hikers; beginners should wear boots.
- Waterproof shell: Non-negotiable. Even on forecast-clear days, the plateau can cloud over quickly and temperatures drop to near zero at the summit.
- Layers: A mid-layer (fleece or light down), a moisture-wicking base layer. At altitude in July the temperature is typically 8–15°C with wind chill.
- Food and water: Carry 2 litres minimum. There is no reliable water on the ridge itself (snowmelt streams appear early season but dry up in August). Pack a full lunch; the descent takes longer than people expect.
- Poles: Recommended for the steep descent to Gjendesheim. Your knees will thank you.
What is the best time to hike Besseggen?
Early July to mid-September is the operating window. The ferry runs from approximately 1 July to late September each year (check gjende.no for exact dates). Late June can work if you confirm conditions — the upper trail may have snow patches, and the ferry may not be running yet.
For crowd management: weekdays in late August and September are the sweet spot. Crowds peak on summer weekends in July when Norwegian school holidays coincide with the best weather. A Tuesday in late August gives you near-empty trails, stable weather, and the first hints of autumn colour on the birch. Avoid going if there has been recent rainfall — the rock on the knife-edge is slick when wet. Check yr.no (Norway's weather service) the evening before.
Is Besseggen suitable for beginners?
Besseggen is listed as moderate-strenuous. The scramble section is exposed but has good handholds; there are no fixed ropes or technical moves. Hikers who have done alpine day hikes in the Dolomites or Julian Alps will find it straightforward. Complete beginners who have never hiked above treeline should pair this with a more experienced companion, or do a few shorter day hikes first to test their comfort with exposure.
The hike is not suitable in poor visibility (cloud or fog on the ridge means you cannot see what you are stepping towards) or wet conditions on the rock.
Planning your wider Norway trip
Besseggen is often combined with other Jotunheimen hikes. Galdhøpiggen, Norway's highest summit at 2,469 m, is about 2 hours' drive north via Lom. For a longer Scandinavia itinerary, pair Besseggen with the Iceland Laugavegur Trek — cheap flights connect Oslo and Reykjavik, and the two hikes offer contrasting landscapes: Norwegian granite versus Icelandic lava fields. Both reward proper planning; see our complete guide to multi-day hikes in Europe to build the rest of your itinerary.